Every season for the past few years they've churned out collections that essentially look like expensive Uniqlo U. I liked their collabs with Nonnative and Guidi, but most of their big fashion collabs outside of that have been duds (ex: Valentino, Levis). Their statement pieces like the Kubrick jackets have been Instagram bait, every Nike collab feels uncharacteristically flat, even compared to the Daybreak collab from 2019.

This new season tells me that nothing will be changing anytime soon hypebeast.com/2023/1/undercover-jun-takahashi-fall-winter-2023-collection-lookbook

At least on the menswear side, it's been a while since undercover has made something that felt truly beautiful

yes because they are most likely gonna announce the shutting down of the brand cus the archive pieces goes for twice of what their new s*** goes for

They did the Evangelion collab, they can never do wrong in my eyes.

this was the only good collection they had in the past 4 years

It's the only one that matters

haven't paid much attention but any time i hear about/see undercover it's old pieces (most of the time) or weak collabs

i feel like a lot of brands are doing weak, if not pointless, collabs rn. i've seen some cool ones too, dont remember em tho

#tbh

most of their stuff has been lazy af for years now. so many of their collabs are just like "take blank dark colored streetwear generics and then add rectangular patches in random sizes with images on them". their regular clothes are also increasingly really uninteresting vs their competition. like some of their stuff is looking like budget Diesel which is like already itself some of undercover's womens' pieces are cool in a vacuum though

instagram.com/p/CnrJPziNaCm/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

I kinda liked the detailing on these when I saw it last week

Something kinda uncanny about the styling or framing of these and their other recent photos tho. like there's almost this pronounced modern you might say Americana style influence to it which I'm not sure I really remember from undercover before but maybe I'm wrong.

Also these guys do like 50,000,000 shoe collabs a year

There are at least 5 big name japanese brands that have been doing americana better than undercover for years now tho

Is that why raf shut down? Sales were dropping bc more people were flocking to the old s***?

i wonder if jun has quietly taken more of backseat role but still kept his title? cause this stuff looks really no different than what they been doing for at least the last 5 years. i can only assume that these directionless collections are selling and jun's/undercovers legacy is already cemented so they don't feel the need to change anything if its working

they have developed a visual language over x amount of years and ran with it. Coming up with new stuff is exhausting

FW20 was hard as brix btw. SS20 was really nice too.

yeah that s*** is ass and uninspired

nothing new or cutting edge or refreshing here

I like some of the pieces from AW20 cuz I’m a sucker for Akira Kurosawa but yeah they’re washed, that Stranger Things capsule was kinda embarrassing tbh

They did years ago when they tricked y’all that all that 70’s rock is cool

nah the SS20 collection is incredible

he's still heavily involved if his IG is anything to go by

At the time the Television stuff fed off of what was going on in streetwear really nicely. I liked the continuity between some of the stuff in that collection and what was dropping on the gyakusou side as well. Can't forget that I really wanted the adventures hoodie after rocky wore it in the l$d video, so if I was one of the impressionable ones, then so be it

though I see your point in retrospect and understand why you see it as the beginning of the end

precisely

also just want to add that one thing that's continued throughout recent UC is jun's ability to surprise with small details or fabrication. i'm always pleasantly surprised when I get a piece in hand

i really like the jewelry they're doing, the Hello Kitty collab, & their women's line.

i liked the recent collection where they did a bunch of different factions

peaked in mid-late 2000s